Jan. 30 2010
After I get everything back together I wanted to make sure I could replace the fuel sender if it had any issues - so I created a access hole. (check out the links thesamba.com below for placement)
I used a drill to start a hole then a jigsaw to cut it out. (I made it almost as large as the cover)
Next found a "metal outlet box cover" to use as a cover (painted black) - I may change this out in the future.
(Here are all the parts I used):
Cover installed with the stainless steel screws (#10) with a lock nut and undermount sink bracket.
And the finished Cover installed:
Useful links to create the access hold for the fuel sending unit:
http://www.dolgyfre.adsl24.co.uk/spooky/access/access.html
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=203227
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=382002
Showing posts with label fuel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fuel. Show all posts
Fuel tank restoration
Jan. 22, 2010
Since I have the tank out - I thought I would clean and seal it. Seems like an easy thing to do with all the posts on thesamba.com (see below for links).
I purchased the POR 15 Tank restoration kit and started the cleaning process:
Before:
Marine clean (step 1) after about 24 hours - letting the solution sit on each side: (Not much better)
Marine clean (step 2) after another 24 hours - this doesn't look much different!
I think maybe the Marine clean isn't working very well because the temperature outside is 40 F.
(Yes I'm using very very hot water to mix with Marine clean - just doesn't seem to be working very well)
I called the local radiator shop (macs radiator) to have them acid clean and seal the tank. They charged $165.00 - Good Price!
Check out the finished product: - NICE!
And after painting:
Here are a few links that could help with DIY Tank restore and checking the fuel sender:
Fuel Tank Information / DIY restore info:
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelTankRestoration.html
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=343449
http://www.paultaylorimaging.com/VW/Fuel_Tank/Fuel_Tank_1.html
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=378770&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Also Checkout these magazines - which have articles on Fuel tanks
HotVW's - October 2009 (Resealing the Type 2 Tank)
VWTrends - March 1999 (Enlarging your pre-67 Type 2's Fuel Capacity)
Since I have the tank out - I thought I would clean and seal it. Seems like an easy thing to do with all the posts on thesamba.com (see below for links).
I purchased the POR 15 Tank restoration kit and started the cleaning process:
Before:
Marine clean (step 1) after about 24 hours - letting the solution sit on each side: (Not much better)
Marine clean (step 2) after another 24 hours - this doesn't look much different!
I think maybe the Marine clean isn't working very well because the temperature outside is 40 F.
(Yes I'm using very very hot water to mix with Marine clean - just doesn't seem to be working very well)
I called the local radiator shop (macs radiator) to have them acid clean and seal the tank. They charged $165.00 - Good Price!
Check out the finished product: - NICE!
And after painting:
Here are a few links that could help with DIY Tank restore and checking the fuel sender:
Fuel Tank Information / DIY restore info:
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelTankRestoration.html
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=343449
http://www.paultaylorimaging.com/VW/Fuel_Tank/Fuel_Tank_1.html
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=378770&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Also Checkout these magazines - which have articles on Fuel tanks
HotVW's - October 2009 (Resealing the Type 2 Tank)
VWTrends - March 1999 (Enlarging your pre-67 Type 2's Fuel Capacity)
Fuel sending unit - rebuilding
Jan. 15, 2010
I removed the tank and tested the fuel sender with the omhs meter:
its bad :(
....
But - before I ordered the wire - I thought I would try to find a used one. It seems a lot of buses where getting parted out this winter. I found a used fuel sender for $20 shipped!
But after I got the used fuel sending unit - it also didn't have any ohms :(
I took it apart and found it was very dirty inside where the wire connects to the top. So I tried cleaning with some green cleaner:
but the contacts between the inside wire and the ground just didn't get cleaned enough:
Finally I just removed that wire and rebuild the one that had a broken wire by un-soldering the old one and carefully re-soldering the replacement wire.
It now reads something like 80 ohms when empty (float at the bottom)
I didn't hook to the gas gauge yet - I'll check that once I get everything back together.
Here are a few links that will help understand the VW Fuel sending unit:
VW Fuel Sender Information:
Tub sender was for 68 to 1/73
Swing arm sender - 2/73-79 (swing arm uses a vibrator on the back of cluster)
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/fuel_ga.htm
http://www.midsouthvw.com/TechTips/tech_tip_FuelGauge.htm
Rebuild Swing arm sender:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4112584#4112584
I removed the tank and tested the fuel sender with the omhs meter:
its bad :(
I took the sender part and found the wire broken.
These units run between $80-$120 new - so I thought I would try to rebuild mine - as its not very difficult - as long as its just the wire. I measured a 1 foot length and it has a resistance of 60 ohms (I assume thats how you figure out the ohms per foot)
I found this site to figure out the gauge of wire I needed:
Check under the 'Ohms per Foot Alloy Match locator'
But after doing many searches I can't find anyone who makes 39.5 awg
But I did find a company that does build 39 awg - which might be close enough for the gauge to work
....
But - before I ordered the wire - I thought I would try to find a used one. It seems a lot of buses where getting parted out this winter. I found a used fuel sender for $20 shipped!
But after I got the used fuel sending unit - it also didn't have any ohms :(
I took it apart and found it was very dirty inside where the wire connects to the top. So I tried cleaning with some green cleaner:
but the contacts between the inside wire and the ground just didn't get cleaned enough:
Finally I just removed that wire and rebuild the one that had a broken wire by un-soldering the old one and carefully re-soldering the replacement wire.
It now reads something like 80 ohms when empty (float at the bottom)
I didn't hook to the gas gauge yet - I'll check that once I get everything back together.
Here are a few links that will help understand the VW Fuel sending unit:
VW Fuel Sender Information:
Tub sender was for 68 to 1/73
Swing arm sender - 2/73-79 (swing arm uses a vibrator on the back of cluster)
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/fuel_ga.htm
http://www.midsouthvw.com/TechTips/tech_tip_FuelGauge.htm
Rebuild Swing arm sender:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4112584#4112584
Locking Gas cap for 68-71 BUS
Oct. 14, 2009
- Locking Gas Cap:
The locking gas cap for the 68-71 VW Bus is either hard to find - or very expensive - found one for $105.00. But whats interesting is 'The Thing' uses the same size - so I purchased the one from The Thing Shop for $52.00 and it fits great!
http://www.thethingshop-az.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=211201551A
- Locking Gas Cap:
The locking gas cap for the 68-71 VW Bus is either hard to find - or very expensive - found one for $105.00. But whats interesting is 'The Thing' uses the same size - so I purchased the one from The Thing Shop for $52.00 and it fits great!
http://www.thethingshop-az.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=211201551A
Replace Fuel Pump and fuel tap
Oct. 4, 2009
- Replace Fuel pump:
Found the Fuel pump was leaking! So I replaced with rotary pump and replaced fuel lines and fuel tap/screen.
Fuel tap was a little different (old on the left) so I cut the new one to match the length in the tank:
New rotary pump installed:
- Replace Fuel pump:
Found the Fuel pump was leaking! So I replaced with rotary pump and replaced fuel lines and fuel tap/screen.
Fuel tap was a little different (old on the left) so I cut the new one to match the length in the tank:
New rotary pump installed:
I still need to add a 'Relay' to make sure the electric fuel pump only runs when the motor is running.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)



















